Zoar's old-growth forest is 'tops' in Northeast
One species tallest known in the world
By Greg Chapman
Many people in Erie and Cattaraugus counties know the Zoar Valley gorge for its recreational opportunities, as well as for its natural beauty. But what many people may not realize is that Zoar Valley also contains some of the tallest trees to be found anywhere east of the Mississippi.
Scientists and forestry experts from six states descended upon Zoar Valley, located along Cattaraugus Creek between Springville and Gowanda, on June 28 to confirm that it contains the tallest old forest in the Northeast and the second-tallest hardwood forest in eastern North America, second only to the Great Smokies National Park.
The hike began at the Valentine Flats parking area south of Gowanda and proeeded down into the gorge, with the group making their way to the confluence of the south and main branches of the Cattaraugus Creek. Several times throughout the day, the team waded through the occasionally knee-deep but refreshingly cool water of the creek as they studied a mile-long section of forest along the main branch.
Using sophisticated hand-held laser measuring equipment and a bit of trigonometry, the team of scientists, including Robert Leverett of Holyoke College, MA, and Dr. Thomas Diggins of Youngstown University, OH, spent nearly seven and a half hours measuring trees and recording data. What they found surpassed even their own expectations.
Measurements confirmed that Zoar Valley contains the tallest-known American Basswood trees to be found anywhere in the world, with a height of 128.2 feet. Other findings included a 156 foot Tulip tree, the tallest-known hardwood tree in the Northeast. Also confirmed was a 153-foot Sycamore and a 124-foot Black Walnut, both the tallest of their type in the Northeast.
And many of these trees are indeed ancient. A Beech stump was found with a circumference of 15 feet that turned out to be from a 400-year-old tree. A downed Sycamore was estimated at 275 years old; and a Basswood at more than 150 years of age.
The diversity of the Zoar Valley forest also impressed the scientists. The gorge contains at least 16 different species of trees living in close proximity - twice to three times the normal diversity of an old growth forest. The size of the forest is also impressive, with at least 700 acres of confined old growth having been discovered along the banks of the Cattaraugus Creek.
"Zoar Valley has one of the greatest forests in the world," remarked Matthew "Twig" Largess, a logger-turned-arborist and conservationist from Rhode Island. He added that Zoar Valley is to forestry "what Notre Dame is to football."
The team of scientists were clearly enthusiastic about what they found in Zoar Valley. An excited but determined atmosphere prevailed throughout the long day of gathering data. Not even the constant annoyance of deer flies could distract Leverett from obtaining his data. "The pain of a bug bite is nothing (to him) compared to not getting the measurement of a tree," commented Diggins.
The Zoar Valley forest, much of which lies within the Zoar Valley Multiple-Use Area east of Gowanda, was discovered by the Western New York Old Growth Forest Survey in 1991.
The group, led by author and forest expert Bruce Kershner of Amherst, hopes that the findings will add weight to their cause of preserving the Zoar Valley forest from being logged.
The forest has been the subject of scientific study for at least four years.
Old-growth forests the size of Zoar Valley's are rare but important.
The unique ecology created by old-growth forests is home to many plants and animals that would have a hard time surviving elsewhere, according to literature distributed during the hike.
The Zoar Valley forest is one of very few local nesting areas for the American Bald Eagle, and three were spotted during Saturday's expedition.
The definition of what qualifies a forest for old-growth status varies from forest to forest. Leverett, who is recognized as one of the nation's foremost experts on hardwood forests and known to those in the field as "The Guru," defines old-growth forests as being "managed by nature over many years with minimal human influence."
At the end of the day, Leverett commented that Zoar Valley is "destined to be one of the most significant sites that we've got. It needs to be protected by state managers who know what it is. We're here to make sure everyone has the facts."